A high surf advisory is in effect for San Diego's beaches until Thursday morning, according to the National Weather Service.
The advisory kicked in Saturday night and is set to expire at 10 a.m. on Thursday.
"Low pressure system to the north and a cold front making its way through the West Coast — this is what's creating some of those big waves, spreading a lot of energy across the ocean," NBC 7 meteorologist Angelica Campos said.
Campos said to expect swells between 6-7 feet with sets of 11 feet on Wednesday and Thursday.
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On Wednesday, high tide is expected to peak around 5:08 a.m. and low tide at 12:30 p.m. Water temperatures may be in the mid- to upper-50s.
While the high surf is fun for surfers, it's also dangerous. NBC 7 meteorologist Francella Perez said the waves were going to create life-threatening surfing and swimming conditions, and that officials were urging people who were not very experienced surfers and swimmers to stay out of the water, and away from jetties and piers.
On Tuesday morning, big waves broke off a piling on the Ocean Beach Pier.
Weather
The high surf could also produce minor coastal flooding in some low-lying areas.
Perez said another swell is expected next week.
A wind advisory was in effect for San Diego County's mountains and deserts until 2 a.m. Wednesday. Winds could gust as high as 55 miles per hour in those areas, according to Campos.
Tuesday saw some rain into the evening, but it was light and short-lived, with under 0.10" for areas west of the mountains. Colder temperatures were expected on Christmas Day.
"By [Wednesday], it dries out, and the clouds in the morning will give way to the sunshine," Campos said. "But foggy conditions can be expected, especially near the coast."
Here's a look at your Christmas Day forecast🎅 Expect party cloudy skies with with slightly below average temperatures and light winds. pic.twitter.com/McuvXb7Tvs
— NWS San Diego (@NWSSanDiego) December 24, 2024
Saturday was the first day of winter. What will winter be like in San Diego this time? Learn more about San Diego's winter outlook and the return of La Niña here.