San Diego

High surf and coastal erosion: San Diego-based geologist shares insight

“This time of year, king tides, no sand on the beach, storm waves,” Pat Abbott said. “Ideal conditions for sea cliffs to collapse.”

NBC Universal, Inc. NBC 7’s Dana Williams spoke with a local geologist about the impact to San Diego County’s coastline.

It's no secret that San Diego County, and all of California, has had an active winter along the coast. From high tides to big waves, made even bigger by storms, there has been flooding statewide with some people narrowly escaping rogue waves.

King Tides are part of the annual cycle

But, what is the overall impact that this winter has had on coastal erosion? Pat Abbott, a San Diego-based expert in geological sciences, told NBC 7 that while it may seem like this January is one for the books, it is part of the yearly cycle.

“Every ocean wave is a big mass of energy,” he said. “It’s hitting something, but if it gets to hit on something solid, they will win. If it’s a sea cliff, the waves will win.”

Different levels of coastal erosion

Abbott chose to meet with NBC 7 at Tourmaline Surfing Park in Pacific Beach as a spot best suited to look at differing levels of coastal erosion.

“Over the years, many times I’ve brought classes for students out here to see significant cliff collapse,” Abbott said. “There are four different types of rock, so that means we have different properties of strength.”

Abbott said the massive surf has been taking sand off of beaches, which is one of the first layers of defense. When there isn’t sand to absorb some of the power of waves, the next thing is often bluffs.

“This time of year, king tides, no sand on the beach, storm waves,” he said. “Ideal conditions for sea cliffs to collapse.”

He added that the cliffs are there because of the ocean, and erosion, and while he does not want to generate fear with the knowledge that they are vulnerable to collapsing, he said it is just part of living on the coast and it is important to understand the process.

“What I like is to understand mother mature and understand what’s going on,” Abbott said.

For the full story with Abbott, watch the video above.

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